Metic Wood Floors
Rustic Oak

Oak

Tiger Oak

Tiger Oak

Walnut

Black American Walnut

Rhodesian Teak

Rhodesian Teak

Merbau

Merbau

Ipe

Ipe

Panga Panga Parquet

Panga Panga

Preparation & Installation

Solid, engineered and parquet flooring can be installed over a wide variety of surfaces; concrete slabs / screed, suspended subfloors, existing floors or joists.

Removing any obstructions or repairing imperfections i.e. protruding nails, loose floor boards or squeaking floor boards is key when preparing your subfloor for an installation.

When installing a wood floor over newly poured screed, a moisture reading with a Tramex moisture meter is required before the installation takes place. This is done as a precautionary measure to avoid future disappointment or inconvenience caused by moisture related problems.

As a general guide, it takes approximately one month per inch for screed to dry sufficiently. Where an underfloor heating system has been covered by screed, in order to gain an accurate reading, the system should be switched off at least 24 hours before the reading takes place.

Note: In addition to ensuring that your subfloor is dry enough to install a timber floor, we also recommend that all wet works are to be completed and are left to dry for at least two weeks before acclimatising your timber.

Acclimatisation

This is a very important procedure which needs to be carried out in order to gaurantee a successful installation. Depending on the product of choice we recommend that the timber acclimatises for 7 to 14 days prior to installation.

Where the flooring is to be installed over underfloor heating, we recommend that the system has been running for at least 2 weeks before your flooring is delivered.

The most effective method used to acclimatise wooden flooring is by stacking the boards in layers, with each layer facing the perpendicular direction to the previous one. Creating small gaps between each board allows for air to circulate between the stack, and therefore allows the timber to adapt to the atmospheric conditions.

Traditional vs Engineered

Solid wood flooring remains a popular choice amongst our customers, although for certain situations it's unsuitable. If you have underfloor heating, or if you require sound proofing insulation, an engineered floor would be recommended. Please bear in mind that solid boards wider than 150mm should be face-fixed.

If you aren't sure about the suitability of solid flooring, feel free to contact us.

Note: Solid timber flooring can be used over underfloor heating, however the boards should not be any wider than 150mm as wider boards are likely to shrink noticeably, especially during winter when the system is on for many hours during the day.

Engineered flooring is designed to withstand the greatly fluctuating conditions caused by underfloor heating systems. These conditions can cause the boards to shrink or buckle, however narrow boards are less likely to be affected. In addtion to being ideal for use over underfloor heating, engineered boards can be floated on top of soundproofing underlay. Extremely wide and long boards also hugely benefit from being manufactured in a multi layered composition, as this construction creates a very stable board.

Once you have decided on the product of choice, you can plan your installation. The installation can be done by either, nailing the boards to a suspended floor or joists, or by gluing the boards directly to a screed or concrete base. Note that the floating option is not possible with solid timber.

Parquet Flooring

A timeless and elegant fashion statement, parquet flooring can be used to create an intriguing pattern, however as the installation can be tricky, we would advise you to contact us before proceeding.

While the herringbone pattern remains one of the more popular choices, there are countless ways of laying the blocks. You’re not only limited to choosing the pattern, different types of borders are possible as well.

The installation should be done using a premium grade flooring adhesive. In most cases, the floor should be fitted and filled out from the centre of the room.

After the installation, the adhesive should be left to set before sanding and finishing the newly laid floor. Once again, this is more difficult than with a standard floor, and we recommend using a professional floor sander for this process.